{"id":3457,"date":"2011-11-10T14:38:30","date_gmt":"2011-11-10T21:38:30","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.gildedserpent.com\/cms\/?p=3457"},"modified":"2011-11-10T19:30:09","modified_gmt":"2011-11-11T02:30:09","slug":"leyla-lanty-cairo-2011-report3","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.gildedserpent.com\/cms\/2011\/11\/10\/leyla-lanty-cairo-2011-report3\/","title":{"rendered":"Fresh Eggs and the Festival Begins"},"content":{"rendered":"

Report No. 3: Ahlan Wa Sahlan, Part 1<\/h2>\n

\"Dinner!\"<\/p>\n

by Leyla Lanty<\/a>
\nFrom the Field June 14 \u2013 July 1 5, 2011
\nDancer portraits by Denise Marino<\/a>
\nposted November 10, 2011<\/span><\/h3>\n

On June 14, 2011, I left home for a month long stay in Cairo, Egypt, my home away from home.\u00a0 The purpose of this trip, one of many I’ve made there, was to attend Ahlan Wa Sahlan<\/a> 2011<\/strong> as well as visit with old friends, make new ones and most important of all this year, to see and experience some of the changes taking place after Egypt’s revolution in January.\u00a0 What follows is a six-part recounting of what I saw, did and felt, based on a diary I kept while I was there. <\/em><\/p>\n

Fresh Eggs, Dinner at a Local Restaurant<\/p>\n

On most days, my breakfast consists of a fresh egg, fresh bread, butter and good Brazilian coffee. \u00a0Because I prefer brewed coffee to instant, I brought a coffee filter cone and enough paper filters for the month with me and bought the ground coffee at the Carrefour store that I described in Report #1<\/a>. \u00a0Sometimes I buy grocery items for myself, but on occasion, one of Ahmed<\/span>\u2019s sons or the \u2018tween-age daughter of our bowab (doorman) brings supplies and\/or a shrimp or chicken lunch for which I\u2019ve paid in advance. \u00a0\u00a0Essential supplies for me are \u201c3aish fino\u201d (fine bread) which are hot-dog bun sized baguettes, butter, bottled water by the case, marinated olives, cheese, cheap luncheon meat for the hall kitties, and fresh eggs. <\/p>\n

In one delivery, the eggs arrived nestled in a big \u201cnest\u201d of straw, with a few fluffy chicken feathers (and other reminders that the eggs come from real birds), all enclosed in a big sturdy plastic bag. \u00a0I soaked them in a pot of soapy water for an hour or so and then used paper towels to scrub them clean before putting them in the refrigerator. \u00a0This is what it means to have fresh eggs in Cairo! \u00a0Yummy–but you have to work for them! <\/p>\n

However, for most dinners and lunches, I eat in local restaurants. \u00a0\u00a0Here\u2019s a typical dinner for two at one of my favorite places in Khan el Khalili: \u00a0beef and lamb kabob, humus, baba ghanoug, pita bread, green salad and torshi (pickled vegetables). <\/p>\n

\"Mena
\nPhoto credit www.oberoihotels.com\/oberoi_menahouse\/index.asp<\/a><\/h6>\n

Ahlan Wa Sahlan Festival 2011 at the Mena House, Oberoi) <\/span><\/p>\n

As usual, Ahlan Wa Sahlan was a wonderful experience for me! \u00a0I attended every day, going late on days on which I had no class scheduled, to meet with people, planned or not, shop at the booths of vendors lining the hallways, enjoy lunch and dinner with other dancers. \u00a0We\u2019d discuss dance in general or our experiences in classes with the AWS teachers, from super stars such as Azza Sherif<\/a>, Dandash, Dina<\/a>, Nelly Fu\u2019ad<\/span> and, of course, Raqia Hassan<\/a><\/span>, to teachers and trainers from the Mahmoud Reda<\/a><\/span> troupe and top teachers from outside of Egypt. \u00a0<\/p>\n

Now for the details:
\nOpening Night, June 27 \u2013 A treat for the eyes and ears, and (oh yes!) the taste buds too.
\nBecause there was a much smaller crowd this year than in previous years, the Opening Gala was held on the Nile Maxim River Boat<\/a> <\/span>(operated by the Cairo Marriott hotel<\/a><\/span>). <\/p>\n

\"<\/p>\n

There were three big buses ready at the hotel to take everyone from the Mena House to the boat–about a half an hour drive. \u00a0We arrived at the Maxim in good time by local standards, with a full security escort of police cars with their blue lights flashing. \u00a0<\/p>\n

Elisa from Australia, several others, and I were the last to get off the buses, and we found ourselves in a procession into the boat loading area along with the raqs tanoura dancers and a band of drums, rebaba, and mizmars; there is nothing like making a big, loud entrance! \u00a0The band members encouraged us to dance along as they played, and who are we to argue against that? <\/p>\n

Although we could see the dancers pretty well, it was not a good vantage-point for taking pictures. \u00a0Dinner was delicious and so was the show! \u00a0Each dance star had her own orchestra of 15 to 20 pieces, plus a solo singer or two, as well as some backup singers. \u00a0The music was to \u201cdie for\u201d! <\/p>\n

\"KatiaOur first dancer was Katia Sherbakova<\/span>, a Russian dancer who has been performing in Cairo for several years. \u00a0Her performance included excellent Raqs Sharqi followed by playful Balady or folk and another Balady number, complete with tabla balady and mizmar players on the dance floor with her. \u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"AzizaAziza<\/span>, a rising star Egyptian dancer was next. \u00a0I very much enjoyed her Oriental performance as well as her Balady. \u00a0(I was pleased to see that Dandash<\/span>\u2019s talented sister, whom I met several years ago, is now Aziza\u2019s singer!) <\/p>\n

Then Soraya<\/span>, \u201cqueen of the drum solo\u201d, was next. \u00a0She did an energetic Egyptian-style Oriental number along with one influenced by Brazilian dance styles as well as another Balady number. \u00a0She is the best drum-solo dancer I\u2019ve ever seen!<\/p>\n

\"SorayaDina<\/a><\/span> capped off our evening with a signature Oriental show that was pure Dina! \u00a0What more can I say? \u00a0I loved her new woman singer who reminded me very much of Fatme Sirhan<\/span> (Dina\u2019s former singer who is now retired). <\/p>\n

During the sit-down dinner at the beginning of the evening, we sailed up and down the Nile for a time or two. \u00a0Then, they tied up at the dock for the rest of the party until about 2 a.m. when we boarded the\u00a0buses and returned to the festival hotel. \u00a0It was a wonderful star-studded evening and a wonderful way to start the festival, although I pitied those who had 10:00 a.m. classes the next day! <\/p>\n

You may wonder why I go to Ahlan Wa Sahlan so often, (other than the fabulous opportunities to learn from the best teachers in the world and see the best Egyptian dancers perform).<\/p>\n

One of the aspects of AWS that I enjoy most is the contact it offers with dancers not only from Egypt, both Egyptian and foreign-born, but from all over the world. \u00a0It\u2019s a rare opportunity to find out that our dance idols are real people who are warm, friendly, and eager to share their knowledge.<\/p>\n

\u00a0Many people come to the festival year after year–so each time is a reunion with old friends as well as the opportunity to form new bonds with other dancers. \u00a0This time was no exception. \u00a0Attendance was down this year because of the current state of the world economy and the changes taking place in Egypt as a result of the revolution in late January. Nevertheless, everyone said over and over, \u201cInsha\u2019allah (God willing) next year!\u201d <\/p>\n

At times during the festival–with all its noise, hubbub, excitement–one needs some \u201cdown\u201d time to relax or enjoy conversation with friends. \u00a0One afternoon, I found a quiet place for this purpose in the first-floor lobby\u2013-\u201cThe Mamluk Bar\u201d. \u00a0It was not in operation for the week of the festival; so, it offered a perfect place for some peace and quiet. \u00a0There, I found Andre Elbing<\/a><\/span>, one of the two photographers who were authorized to photograph all aspects of the festival. \u00a0Andre interviewed me on my background, history, and philosophy in dance and said he may use it in an article for one of the dance magazines to which he contributes. \u00a0Later in the week, I met with Andre again and with Denise Marino<\/a><\/span>, the other authorized \u00a0festival photographer, to make arrangements with both of them to buy some wonderful photos that they took of my performance at the evening Summer Show. <\/p>\n

Every night is a party at Ahlan Wa Sahlan! <\/p>\n

If you don\u2019t get enough schmoozing with other dancers between classes or at meals, there\u2019s a Summer Show every night. \u00a0Each of the evening shows provides a chance to get to know new acquaintances better or to hang out with old friends. \u00a0On the first two nights, all the dance slots were reserved for teachers who wished to perform. \u00a0Teachers\u2019 nights give the festival teachers an opportunity to show what they\u2019re going to teach, and maybe, attract more students to their classes. \u00a0The other nights are for \u00a0anybody who wants to sign up to perform and those who want to join a competition for prizes. \u00a0The dancers range from advanced students to full-time professionals. \u00a0\u00a0Beside all the lovely women who performed on the two teachers\u2019 nights, Loli<\/span> and Sherif Ragaey<\/span>, two young Egyptian male teachers, were real standouts in the lineup. \u00a0In my opinion, they will likely become well-known as dancers and teachers. <\/p>\n

On the first teachers\u2019 night, we were treated to a performance by the Amr Abu Ziad Troupe<\/span>. \u00a0They had all-male dancers, including men on 6-foot high stilts dancing through the audience, several Raqs Tanoura (turning\/spinning) dancers, at least two singers, and a Saidi band. \u00a0The last few minutes of their show included audience dancing. \u00a0Wow! \u00a0It was non-stop excitement!<\/p>\n

\"Leyla<\/p>\n

\"Stick<\/p>\n

Amr Abu Ziad Troupe’s band (all of it) and the troupe’s tahtib dancers <\/h6>\n

Again this year, Raqia hired Debbie Smith<\/a><\/span> to be the emcee and general manager of the dancers at the evening parties. \u00a0Under Debbie\u2019s guidance, the shows ran smoothly from one dancer to the next and from CD dancers to live music dancers and back again to CD dancers. <\/p>\n

Closing part one on a personal note: I was surprised by the number of people who asked why I was not dancing on one of the teachers\u2019 nights. \u00a0I have taught finger cymbals (sagat, or zills) at four previous festivals, but did not teach this year because of the reduced attendance and teaching staff. \u00a0Insha\u2019allah–I will teach again next time! <\/em><\/p>\n

Coming up: \u00a0Report #4 Ahlan Wa Sahlan Part 2 \u2013 classes, performing with the Safaa Farid Band, and the Closing Gala.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

Previous chapters of Leyla’s A Month in Cairo 2011 Reports<\/h6>\n