The
Gilded Serpent presents...
North
Beach
and Mark Bell
From
an interview
with Lynette
Mark began playing
the Arabic drum, tabla, in 1972, and the Persian drum, zarb or dumbek,
in 1976. Primarily self-taught, he had the great fortune to study with
Farahadman in Tehran, Iran, and with Mahmoud
Hamouda at the Conservatory of Music in Giza, Egypt. He has
performed professionally for over 25 years.
Mark and his wife, Elisabeth, form the music ensemble, "Helm."
They have three
CDs available now and one more in the making. It is the second in
the Tribal Dance/Tribal Drums series with the working title, "Etneen",
in collaboration with FatChanceBellyDance.
My story starts
in 1972. At the time I was living in a teepee in Nicasio, California.
I had come back to Marin
County from Oregon
where I had contracted hepatitis. The teepee belonged to Martha,
sister of the guy (Jan Wenner) who started the Rolling
Stone Magazine. I needed a place to stay while I was recovering
from yellow eyeballs. The main reason for my return was to attend Ali
Akbar College
(the school of music teaching the classical music of North
India).
Though the dumbek
wasn’t part of the curriculum, I included it in my studies. I
mistakenly came to the conclusion that playing the dumbek would be easier
than playing Indian music. My schedule included my studies at AACM and
dumbek lessons at night. I always had my drum with me, playing constantly.
At
the beginning of the summer, I was involved in a minor legal hassle,
so I needed money for lawyers and to pay back a friend who had put up
bond money. Somebody, perhaps it was Vince
Delgado, told me that I might be able to get a job a couple of nights
a week at the
Bagdad. So I went to audition at the Bagdad.
My first foray into the Broadway scene resulted in George
Elias telling me to go away, as I didn’t know enough of anything
(yet). Back to the woods of Nicasio I went.
I played at the
Renaissance Faire for Jamila
Salimpour in the fall of ''72 (after 8 months of playing dumbek).
Jamila had had a fight with Vince the year before, hired this other
guy who played in North Beach.
She had another fight with him and he quit. All this I found out later.
I came into the picture in quite a round about way.
I had a friend,
Michael, who had a fruit salad booth at the Faire that year and who
in turn had hired other friends of mine. They came back after the first
day and said I had to go back with them. I wasn’t really into
it, but this one guy, Marco, who was pretty crazy, said I was going
or he would knock me unconscious. I knew he would do it, so I went.
Another friend
of mine, a San Francisco Sufi, was working at the salad booth. I guess
he had made some deal with Jamila to push her cart - a sort of wooden
litter/carriage thing - that Suhaila rode around in.
Suhaila was six years old at this point, and she played the part
very well; she was very gracious. Granted royalty, she didn’t
lord it over anyone; she was very warm and had a lot of class. My friend
sent me to deliver the message to Jamila that he wasn’t going
to wheel Suhaila around. Off I went with my little metal Syrian dumbek
on my back.
"Can you play
that?" said Jamila, pointing to my drum,
"Yeah!" said I.
"Play beledi!" said Jamila.
"Play chiftitelli," said Jamila.
“Do you want to play for my troupe?" she asked.
"Yes!" I said.
It
was pretty mind boggling to play for Bal Anat. Darioush
Sami was playing santour, with strings breaking and flying
all over the place. The whole bunch of us hippy drummers was pounding
away. Add the dancers with the cymbals and drums, and it was a very
big sound. Jamila was in the center with her big drum, trying to control
everything, marking the beat with one hand.
It was also at the
Ren Faire in ''72 that Salah Takesh
played one day. He came on stage and looked at the drumming crew and
at me. “Play plenty of 'dooms' so I can trip out,” he said.
He wanted us to keep the basic beat so he could improvise over the top.
We were reluctantly
impressed.
In
the evenings, at the Ren Faires, before there were curfews, we used
to play until 3 or 4 o’clock in the morning - Darioush,
Saul, Armando, Ernie and Debbie Fischbach
and Trent Anderson. Musically, these jam sessions were
more mind boggling. The repertoire included songs from Turkey and Iran,
in 7 and 9 beat rhythms. We got to apply theory from class to actual
music.
After the Ren Faire
of ''72 we also did the Dickens Faire (a Victorian-themed fair
by the same organizers) with Bal Anat. I think I started playing at
the Bagdad two nights a week, somewhere in there
(as the guy who Jamila fired got his wish from George and got two nights
off). After the Faire, I started going around to the clubs. I was teaching
drums for Bal Anat at Jamila’s Saturday classes. I got to know
Rababa, Europa or Karma
(my girlfriend at the time), Mish Mish, Anzelle,
Nicky, Sonya and Kismet
(the last three were the original pot dancers). Around this time I also
met John
Compton, who used to pick me up hitch-hiking. He had a pickup truck
and was doing gardening. He wasn’t yet with Jamila, but he would
be with Jay, a “loose rope” walker. John
sold hanging fern baskets at the Faire and could make anything grow.
When
I started working at the Bagdad, I worked Monday
and Tuesday nights. They were incredibly dead nights with maybe 6-10
people in the audience, which was good for me because I needed a lot
of work. I had to learn on stage.I had never heard any of the songs
George was playing. I really had no idea about playing for dancers in
nightclubs.
One of the images
I remember that was really cool, was when George Elias would do a Farid
al Atrash oud solo. He used to play it a lot for Amina.
Amina
would do an incredible floor taksim, tossing her hair around, flying,
kind of beyond the constraints of accepted floor work routines at
the time. I don’t know if she tranced out, but it was really
wild!
Tasha
had started working the clubs in North
Beach when she was 16. She
just lied about her age. I don’t recall a lot of the details,
but I don’t think her parents knew she was leaving Pittsburg
(in California, a city
about 90 minutes to the east of San Francisco)
to dance in The City. She was in high school! She could tell you some
good stories.
A couple of dancers
(whom I won’t name) just used the club to help their other nighttime
activities. One I knew better than the other; she was one of the nicest
people I ever met and directed me to source recordings by Abdul
Halem Hafez and other singers. George would never tell me about
any of that.
In the winter of
'72, we did the Dickens Faire with Jamila, doing thirteen shows a weekend.
They had Bal Anat in a coffee house nightclub that one would have to
stumble across to find. It was not the major production like she put
on at the Ren Faire. She had a fight with Darioush and then hired Saul
(Sulyman) to do the rest of the Faire. The Dickens Faire was
pretty miserable. It was in a warehouse in South
San Francisco that was freezing and damp. Shows
were every half hour from 10a.m. to 10p.m.; we wore Middle Eastern vests instead
of turbans and galabias. The music was good and the show was fun. It
was an interesting change playing with Saul. But man, it was cold!
The best thing that
came out of the Dickens Faire was that a PBS station asked us (Bal Anat
at Dickens) to do a video for their programming. I saw it maybe four
or five years later: they were still running it. My initial comment
to myself was, “Thank God, the dancers were good!” It's
a good thing that I have a big ego that could shut out what I was doing
then. I was awful!
That spring the
guy who was working most of the time at the Bagdad
wanted to cut down to two nights so he could go to school full time.
Then George hired an Arab drummer to replace him, which meant that I
got released. I think it was at that time, when I was 21 or 22 years
old, that George said, "You’re a nice kid and smart. Why don’t
you go back to school? How old are you? You are way behind the Arab
drummers. Why don’t you go do something else?"
He was
right in that when you aren't born in the culture, you don’t
have it in your subconscious mind. You look like a total fool because
there are a lot of breaks and stops in the music, and you may have
never heard the songs before. If you are playing three or four hours
a night, that is a lot of songs to just walk into and play cold.
Even if you learn 200 songs, most of these guys know 2000 songs
or more! You are at an incredible disadvantage to figure out what
is going on!
Unfortunately
for George, the drummer he had hired got killed over a used car in Kansas
City or someplace like that; so George had to
beg me to come back five nights a week! At that time, I had been
living out of my car for a couple of months, trying to go to AACM with
virtually no money to buy instruments, let alone food. I was more than
happy to head back to North Beach!
Soon (I think 1973)
I finally got enough money together to get a room in John Compton’s
house in San Anselmo. (It was on San Anselmo
Avenue off of Center
Street.) In that period, Rhea was studying
polarity therapy and did a session on me. I had two fingers that were
previously partially paralyzed that came back! She healed me!
I went to her because I was so tense from playing drum. She didn’t
work on my hands specifically; it was a side benefit. I am quite thankful
to her! She was in a car accident
and got hurt very badly; her sessions were not the same after that.
My original finger injury occurred on the bus with Steve Gaskin,
famous for "The Farm”, and “Spiritual Midwifery". Somebody
had a roll of carpet balancing on the stove in the bus. It started to
roll and I went to catch it and caught my hand on the edge of the stove,
causing a deep stab to the back of my hand.
Another colorful
character in the scene was Rashid Kadmeri, a guy from
Casablanca, who had been
drumming on his own. He was the one who got me into doing left hand
finger rolls. He helped me to get my left hand to be an integral part
of drumming instead of its just flopping about! This tied in really
well with having Rhea fix my fingers.
Samra
was another complex dancer in Jamila's troupe. She said she was half
Arabic, and studied the Arabic language between sets. She was always
going to school and had other non-belly dance gigs too. She showed me
the kind of drive you need to succeed. She was at dance classes at 7
or 8 a.m., off to university in the afternoon and dancing in the clubs
at night.
Reyna
was Italian and had black hair down to her ankles. She was a dancer
in the club, and maybe studied with Jamila at some point. Her best bits
were in the
Casbah, where she would really work over a guy with her eyes and
expressions. When she knew that she had him hooked, she would do a fish
eye or some grotesque look, looking really weird, to gross him out.
It was a game she played. One
time when she went for tips, she went into the men’s room just
to be funny. (She knew nobody was in there.) We played "Zalati Zane"
one night and I remember in the chorus where everyone says “Hey!”,
she would walk to the front of the stage and strike a "weight lifter
hulk" pose and, flexing her biceps, say "HEY!" in a deep voice.
Working at the
Bagdad five nights a week gave me quite a reality
check. It was a funny place. I remember a couple of fights where the
police would haul people out the door in hand cuffs and of course we
would just keep playing. Somebody would run in off the street and then
somebody would follow just behind him...a mini-riot and here comes the
cops! George just took it all in stride.
There
was a whole world with layers of consciousness that I had no idea
about. The intrigues between the dancers and customers, the dressing
room scene and past histories between George, Yousef,
Fadil
and Jalal.
I had no idea and nobody filled me in. I was in my own world trying
to figure out the music.
George
was always funny when there was a taxsim, because he would turn on a
rhythm box. To this day I can’t stand boleros. I would just stop,
and wait until it was over. He knew I really liked the Abdul
Halim song called "Ma-oud" . He would wait until I was two
feet from the door to take a break and he would start playing it to
keep me from going outside. He was playing with me. When your club is
dying and you have to amuse yourself, you do anything to keep yourself
going: games or whatever it takes. He knew that I would come back and
sit down to listen.
One of the other
things I remember from that time was one night when I had just come
out on a break and Jalal was out on a break from the Casbah, when
a Chinese gang pulled up and were going after some Chinese
guy with chains. Maybe it was up by the Mabuhay Gardens.
(It was a restaurant at that time, not a punk club as it became later.)
They were chain-whipping the guy, and an SFPD car was just sitting
there in stopped traffic. Jalal ran over to the cop car and said,
“Hey, hey, they are killing that guy!” Jalal just
tossed up his hands when he realized the police were not going to do
anything. When the gang noticed the police, they left in their van. Then
the police turned on their siren and pulled up to the guy bleeding on
the sidewalk. The police obviously didn’t want to get involved,
as they were outnumbered. But at least they could have turned on their
siren to get the gang to leave a little sooner. They sure walked around
tough once they got out of the car!
We
used to go back and forth on nights off between the Casbah and Bagdad.
Salah was playing, Jalal was on kanoun, Fadil, Ali Azadan,
a Persian drummer, and Giligili on drum. Fadil played
differently from George, who wasn’t always easy
to get along with. I would sit in with Fadil for a dancer or two. Also
I was looking for musicians better than I was, so I could learn new
things.
Mark Jaqua
was the coolest guy you’ll ever meet. He was a bongo player that
I met at AACM while he was studying tablas. When I first started playing
he was interested in the same girl I was. He asked me what it was
like to play dumbek. I showed him a baladi rhythm and played him
my limited repertoire of baladis. He started playing them immediately.
I showed him chiftitelli, which I thought would stump him. He said,
“Oh, you mean, 'how much wood could a woodchuck chuck?'”
and then immediately played it in a barrage of tabla and bongo strokes.
If I remember correctly, I said I needed to be someplace else and left.
He played at the
Ren Faire in '74 with Jamila and then moved on to the Bagdad. He took
lessons with Vince for a while, and played on a couple of recordings
with Jazayer. He got a job working with one of the TV stations
after going to school to get a degree doing tech stuff for the newscasts.
He was a very smooth dude. One day at Wild Mountain Café,
a Mexican vegetarian restaurant in Corte Madera (run by the
Yogi Bhajan Ashram who make Golden Temple Granola.),
Mark was there when it was filled with people. He asked if he could
share the table with a group and within less than thirty minutes
he had two dates with the women at the table. I used to call him Mr.
Smooth. He was a sweetheart and one of the nicest people you could meet.
In the spring/summer
of '73, I was living at John's when Jamila for some reason
got it into her mind that she was going to have a male dancer at the
Faire in '73. John was peeking in at Jamila's classes during this
time because he was already friendly with many of the dancers due to
the Ren Faire connections.
For
some reason, Jamila started talking to me about being her male
dancer. That’s like asking a slug to model Versace gowns.
So I told her, "Look, why don’t you get John? He wants to
do it and he can dance!"
So,
luckily, she got him and not me! John then had one or two weeks before
the Faire and practiced all the time! That was the year that Ernie,
Bob Thomas (cool dude
that later died), (and I don’t remember who else) did a lot of
the Faires. I’m confused because I was exhausted from working
and hitchhiking back and forth between the Faire and the clubs, carrying
my drums. I missed a lot of the fun nightlife at the Faire. After the
Faire, I told George I had to quit because I needed a break.
I gave him two months
notice, but after two weeks he hired Kasim Razizan,
a violinist, and Jamil for drum. It totally changed
the dynamic of the North Beach clubs when these guys started playing.
The Bagdad was now packed every night. Kasim and Jamil were really good.
George wasn’t limited by my ignorance of the repertoire. Plus,
he didn’t need to carry the whole load. He could be host and play
when he wanted and was having much more fun than he was when he
was employing just me. (We had been the only musicians , George
and I!) George realized that economizing does not always work out for
the best. I got paid less than the Arab musicians because I was an American
musician.
After this,
I didn’t work for months in the clubs. I would still go down to
check them out. Then I started working at the Casbah in the spring of
‘74. I got that job because Giligili had had a stroke.
So I
got one job because someone was murdered and the other because someone
had had a stroke. A lot of my getting the jobs was because I was
there available when the opportunity arose. I knew Fadil from
my coming in to the club and sitting in. I was lucky! As
I look back on it, it’s always been really hard for western
musicians to get jobs in the Arab clubs.

Mark
in 1973
|
Jamila had a lot of
student nights at the Casbah. She was mad at George (owner of the Bagdad)
because he told her he made his money by selling drinks (in response to
some desire for focus from Jamila). She also preferred having her dancers
employed at the Casbah because of this. So we had a mixture of Bal Anat
dancers along with some of Bert Balladine's
students. My favorite dancer who studied with him was Safia
(Mary Polino). She was inside the music and smooth! Like a goddess!
I think Salah left
for the summer to go travel in the Middle East. I was working at least
five nights a week while he was gone. (We had been splitting the nights
when Giligili became ill.) There I was: back in the center of the North
Beach scene!
Rassah
studied with Jamila (and was a close friend of Malea's).
She accompanied me to a party in Santa Cruz where the husband charged
us at the door to get in, saying it was for the musicians. I had no
problem with this because it was Sirocco and they were my friends. Then
the hostess noticed me there, and realizing that her husband probably
had charged us, fell all over herself saying how honored she was that
I was there, as if playing in North Beach gave me royalty status. Rassah
commented to me on the side, "Remind me never to go anywhere with
you where you are known!"
| Owsley
Agustus Stanley III is the grandson of the Kentucky Governor (1915-1919),
he lived with, and sponsored the Grateful Dead in the 1960s. He
was also famous for a type of LSD- "Owsley's Acid." He
is rumoured to now be living in Australia. |
This was also the
year of the big Bal Anat revolt. Augustus Stanley Owsley III
said when I walked into the back room after the showdown, “Ah,
you're that revolting fellow!”
Pita Gooley
was doing the faire, this was Patty Farber’s
group. (Babaganoush? Pita Gooley’s ? Or was that the name for
just the musicians?) In response to the new competition, Jamila decided
we were going to streamline Bal Anat down to mostly solo dancers. Just
the best dancers, and in essence we were going to "kick some butt!"
One of the main problems with this theory is we never practiced. I never
saw the whole show until two days before the Faire, when we had a dress
rehearsal at the Casbah. At least I felt good about the musicians. They
were Ernie Fishbach, Freddie Mahia, (known as a flamenco
guitarist that Ernie had drafted into playing mizmar) and another guy
(I think his name was Doug). I remember that
upon awaking, he would hang upside down in a tree for a while. Mark
Jaqua and I were on drums. Looking back, maybe I should have been worried!
The dress rehearsal was okay.
We were supposed
to be doing two 30-minute and one 45-minute show. It ended up being
two 45-minute shows and an hour-plus show.
I started the show
chanting, “Need money!” and the audience threw money on
the stage. Sometimes that was the highpoint. For some reason, Ernie
and Freddie decided before the Faire that they wanted to take over the
show. So for virtually the entire six weeks, they would play each measure
a little faster than the preceding measure in an attempt to get Jamila
to get off the stage and stop controlling everything. Jamila would look
over at me as she noticed that things were getting messed up. I
would look over at her and smile like everything was totally fine. Meanwhile,
I was trying to hold back the mizmars (Ernie and Freddie).
There
was a lot of stuff going on both during and between the shows. Jamila
forbade anyone from our group to watch Patty Farber’s
show. Of course, we all went to watch from the front of the audience,
and when we would scan the audience, lo and behold, there was Jamila!
There
was another notable thing, I’m not very good at reading lips,
but I think that at each of John’s shows he would have 20-30 women
saying “I love you!” from the audience while he danced.
Details
of the revolt
That last Saturday of the last weekend of the Faire, as John started
doing his back bend with his tray, Jamila looked at me and with her
lips, motioned me to do a drum roll during John’s backbend. I
knew that if I rolled for John, I might never catch up with the
mizmars, and it would turn into total chaos. I looked at her and acted
confused. She passed the instructions down through the dancers.
I said, "Really, are you sure?" The moment passed and she was pissed.
I ran into her the next morning and she said, “I want you to roll
for John.” I didn’t want to get into the thing with Ernie,
so told her I wouldn’t. She said, “Can’t or won’t?”
I said
"I won’t." She said, “You’re fired." I said, "I quit."
This story got back to the rest of the band. They all decided they were
going to wear black armbands to protest my absence. While Jaqua
was on stage setting up, Jamila told Ernie backstage to take off the
armband. He refused; she fired him. Freddie said he wasn’t going
on without Ernie. Doug still played, and then Jamila had Aida
pick up the mizmar and do that show. It was awful! Aida was a basoon
player and not used to the playing the mizmar. We hung around and listened,
of course. Then she called up Salah to help with the last two shows.
At the end of the day, when she offered Mark Jaqua the position of lead
drummer to teach the girls in the troupe the drum (taking my position),
he declined. He couldn’t stand the politics. "Big Black”
is what he called Jamila.
More to come....
including Habi'Ru
and Helm!
Mark Bell can
be contacted at : helmmuseeka@earthlink.net
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for More?
more North Beach Memories
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